I just heard that a fire destroyed the wooden facade of Chez Panisse at 3 am today. It's a story that's everywhere from The New York Times to The Berkeleyside. People are upset.
I'm also upset. It's an institution on North Shattuck in Berkeley, and I walk past it many times a year. I see limos depositing people from out of town. But I hardly ever go in.
Here's why--and this may be a sacrilege:
- It's expensive.
- It's somewhat noisy.
- Often you have to sit on hard wooden benches, maybe with a pillow to cushion the bum. You sit very close to neighboring tables.
- There's the sense that you're very, very lucky to be able to eat there.
- My mother once asked for well-done lamb chops and was refused them.
- Jerry and I had a special lunch there once and figured out that it cost us $1 a minute. We were in and out in one hour.
- In a word, I find it snobby. I'm never quite comfortable there, in any sense of the word.
The food, however, is good.
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